The fundamentals of machine embroidery.
I learned to sew when I was 5 years old, I’d take great have fun with hand stitching little bags and outfits for my dolls. By the time I became a teenager I was quite accomplished in dressmaking and would make most of my own, personal clothing. It had been a natural development to embellishing, I learned the fundamental hand embroidery methods and I would decorate my clothing.
In 1999 I discovered machine embroidery, I believed it was magic, and I still do. In the early days I bought a sewing machine and embroidery machine in one, It was not super-cheap at the time, however it pales compared to today’s machines. I still have it and use it for sewing regularly and from time to time when my 6 needle machine is otherwise engaged I’ll still use it for embroidery.
The amazing thing is when i first bought my single needle embroidery machine I didn’t get very great results. The reason behind this is that in 1999 there was not the information out there to inform machine embroiderers. I get that old machine out now and my results are fabulous, this is because I now understand what I am doing.
This brings me one of my favorite sayings, “First you have to know the rules, then you can break them”. Being an avid cook, dressmaker, embroidery, and digitizer I find this philosophy relates to everything. With the food prep I do know what herbs and spices go along with what meats and vegetables and I can manipulate quantities and substitute other items. But first you need to know the principles, should you understand the foundations and the reason for them you can then change methods to suit yourself.
Correct hooping techniques will always make major difference in your result. Hoop the stabilizer with the material. Ensure that the fabric is firm in the hoop but is not distorted. A piece of nonslip matting on your work bench may help keep your bottom hoop stable as you position your fabric.
A dense, high stitch count design on a light fabric will entirely ruin the fabric’s flow. Select subtle designs when utilizing light-weight fabric. When stitching a design on a towel or high-pile fabric, go with a dense design that won’t vanish in the pile. Lastly, for stretch fabrics, don’t try anything too dense and large. Don’t forget, the fabric will stretch, but the embroidery won’t.
I suggest using “Cutaway” on unstable fabrics (e.g. stretchy or knitted); using “Tearaway” on stable fabrics (e.g. woven); and ultizing “Washaway” on freestanding lace or apparel, or some nice 3D stuff with organza – that is, if you want to get rid of the stabilizer altogether in the event the embroidery has been completed. Always use a water soluble topper on toweling. Once again, like anything else, try some out and discover the possibilities through your own efforts.
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